When I picked up my first winter CSA share from Stoneboat Farm last weekend, it was evident that the change of seasons had made itself known. The farm's salad mix of tender, leafy greens has morphed into a hearty melange of chicory, spinach, tatsoi, endive, and arugula (perfect for tossing with a Caesar dressing or my Creamy Miso Vinaigrette).

Carrots and kale sweetened by cooler temperatures, beets with their still-gorgeous greens, squash in myriad shapes and colors, alliums of all kinds and apples in towering stacks are joining the late-summer zukes and cukes and peppers (oh my!).

Cabbages—Napa, savoy, purple and green—are joining brassicas like broccoli and cauliflower, tickling my pickling juices with thoughts of sauerkraut, kimchi and one I've wanted to try for some time, bright yellow chow-chow. Defined as "a pickled relish designed to preserve the best of summer's bounty," Southern Living says it is also known as "piccalilli" or "Indian pickle," most often served cold as a condiment.

Cabbage is most often named as a main ingredient, but it can also be made with green tomatoes, cauliflower, carrots, beans and other vegetables. In "Victuals"—pronounced "vidls"—food historian Ronni Lundy describes it as "mountain folks' favorite sweetly spiced relish" and says "a big tablespoon of it on top of a bowl of soup beans served with cornbread is a pure delight."

I borrowed the brine recipe from Portlanders Megan Scott and John Becker's 2019 version of "The Joy of Cooking," where Megan writes that she grew up eating the tangy pickle on everything from hot dogs to salmon cakes to pinto beans, adding that "it adds a bit of zest to foods that need enlivening."

After tasting this first batch, the possibilites seem endless!

Cauliflower Chow-Chow

For the chow-chow:
2-2 1l2 lbs. cauliflower, separated into small florets
1 large onion, quartered and slivered crosswise
1 med. fennel bulb, quartered and slivered crosswise
2 c. carrots, quartered and thinly sliced

For the brine:
3 c. distilled white vinegar
2 c. cane sugar
1 Tbsp. whole mustard seeds (brown or yellow)
2 tsp. whole celery seeds
1 1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 Tbsp. sea salt (or pickling salt)
1 tsp. red pepper flakes (optional)

Thoroughly wash and dry at least two wide-mouth quart jars (or four wide-mouth pint jars) and canning lids with rings.

Prepare vegetables as directed. Many recipes will have you chop them by pulsing in a food processor, but I like more defineable bits, so suit yourself as to how finely chopped they are.

In a large braising pot or Dutch oven, combine vinegar and spices and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to make sure sugar dissolves. Add vegetables, return to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes until vegetables are tender.

While vegetables are still hot, ladle vegetables into jars, packing them down with a spoon so they are submerged in brine. Fill to 1/2" of top of jars. Seal with canning lids and rings until finger-tight. If you want them shelf-stable, follow instructions on your canner for water-bath canning. Or after filling jars as above, you can allow the jars to cool to room temperature, then place in the refrigerator where they'll keep for several months.

Thanksgiving is gonna be different this year, as every article in the country is noting. Duh.

You are staying home and not gathering with friends or relatives, right? Right? Because getting together for one meal this one time wouldn't be worth living with the guilt of killing your parents, grandparents, kids, relatives, friends or members of the broader community, right? Right.

Check the graph on the left if you don't believe me. (Full size version.)

So, anyway, just because there's a pandemic and you might not be getting together with the people you care most in the world about (see above) doesn't mean you can't eat well. Right?

For instance, Thanksgiving, to me, aside from spending time with those I love (but not this year, right?) is not so much about the turkey. Though Dave, who is hidebound in his compulsion to grill the bird regardless of snow, sleet, rain, freezing temperatures or any other calamities the gods may place in his path, and who must have his turkey enchiladas made from the smoky (and really quite fabulous) leftovers, will do it regardless.

Myself, I'm all about the sides. From dressing to potatoes and gravy, to (this year) a chicory salad à la Nostrana and various seasonal vegetables roasted to perfection, they are what make the dinner for me. (Sorry, honey.)

Below are a couple of easy roast vegetable recipes that I think are pretty spectacular that you could make for the holidays or anytime, and that could even serve as vegetarian-friendly main dishes alongside a roasted squash.

Wishing you a safe and healthy holiday AT HOME. (Right?)

Roasted Cauliflower à la Sahni

This recipe is my adaptation of Julie Sahni's version in Classic Indian Cooking. Sahni, who, along with Madhur Jaffrey, brought Indian cuisine to the masses here in the US, steams her cauliflower then crisps it by frying. I found it's easier and faster to roast it.

1 medium head cauliflower
4 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 tsp. coriander seeds
1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
1 1/2 Tbs. fresh grated ginger
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. cilantro, chopped fine (optional)

Preheat oven to 400°.

Separate the cauliflower into small bite-sized flowerets and chop any stems or leaves into 1/2" pieces (seriously, they're great). Place in large bowl.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a small skillet until very hot. (Flick a drop of water into the oil. If it spatters, it's hot enough.) Add coriander seeds and cumin seeds and fry until the seeds turn dark brown, about 10 seconds. Reduce heat to medium-high and add ginger, stir briefly, then add turmeric and salt and stir. Pour over cauliflower and stir to coat. Place in 9" by 12" roasting dish (or roasting pan) and place in oven for 40-50 minutes until browned and very tender.

Taste and adjust salt. Garnish with chopped cilantro, if using, and serve.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Olives and Preserved Lemon

1 lb. Brussels sprouts, halved
10 castelvetrano olives, pitted and roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
3-6 anchovies, minced
3-4 Tbsp. olive oil
4 Tbsp. preserved lemons, chopped, or juice of 1 lemon
Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 350°.

Place halved Brussels sprouts in a large mixing bowl. Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Transfer to 9" by 12" roasting dish (or roasting pan) and place in oven for 35 minutes until browned and very tender. (I like the sprouts very browned on the edges.) Taste for salt and serve.

Coronavirus transmission graph from Licking County Health Department.